Craftzine.com blog: Ask CRAFT Archives

Archive: Ask CRAFT

February 3, 2010

Ask CRAFT: Labeling Fabric Bins

If you have a question for Ask CRAFT, shoot me an email at becky@craftzine.com, or drop us a note on Twitter! We'd love to answer your crafty questions on any topic: technique, projects, crafty culture, or anything else! Each week the answers are here; include your name, where you're from, and your website or blog if you have one!

Kristina writes in:

My daughter's toys are organized in fabric bins. I need a way to label the bins, preferably:

with image and text, for my 3-year-old

in a way that a 3-year-old won't be tempted to rip the label off and tear the bin

in a way that can be changed out over time as she grows out of toys and they get replaced with other items

in a way that works with any color bin, since most folks use multicolor bin configurations

I'm unsure if the fabric of the bins can tolerate ironing, so I'm reticent about iron-on transfers.

These bins are so common now, and I'm surprised there isn't a product on the market to label them. CRAFT to the rescue?

Indeed! My best advice for you? Check out our Craft Rooms series, where we went inside crafters' spaces to see how they stay organized. There are lots of labeled compartments, for sure! For your particular bins, I'd recommend sewing on clear vinyl pouches, into which you can slide a printed label with text and an image. For a tutorial on sewing with clear vinyl, check out our Car Craft Caddy project. Another possible solution would be to hand-embroider the pictures and text on the fronts of the bins. This would be safe and tamper-resistant, but also quite labor intensive. Hope that helps, please send us pictures of your solution! If you have advice for labeling Kristina's bins, let her know in the comments below!

Above image by Mama Bluerose.

January 27, 2010

Ask CRAFT: Embellishing and Selling

Allison in Washington, DC, writes:

I am wondering if I purchase a ready-made clothing item and then embellish (e.g. through applique or embroidery), can I ethically sell it as my own work?

You certainly can sell it as your own work, but I'd make it clear in any online listings that you didn't construct the garment itself. Look on Etsy for things tagged "embellished" or "applique" or "refashioned" or "upcycled" for some examples of how other people list these types of items. In my opinion if you're adding something valuable and creative to the clothing, then it certainly is your own work. Pictured above is Madrigal Embroidery's hand-embellished upcycled necktie on Etsy. What are your thoughts on embellishing garments to sell? Share with us in the comments!

December 30, 2009

Ask CRAFT: Baby-Safe Designs on Fabric

Ryan Bell writes in:

I am looking for a baby-safe photo transfer system (something to transfer/print photos onto fabric with) to make soft fabric blocks with. I want to make soft fabric cubes with high-contrast black and white images of family members on them so that my baby has something to play with but also develops a familiarity with our family. I have used Bubble Jet Set in the past but it has not been tested for baby safety and is not recommended to be used for things baby may put in her mouth. I can't seem to find a product that is safe for baby to chew on and was wondering if one even exists.

While I had just as much trouble as you finding an iron-on inkjet transfer paper that explicitly states it's baby-safe, there are other options. Let's start by listing some materials that you should be able to find in non-toxic and baby-friendly variations:

silkscreen ink
fabric paint
fabric
yarn
fabric glue
embroidery floss

So, while not as easy as printing out and ironing on, there are many techniques that could lead you in the right direction. If you don't have access to a silkscreen setup, try our freezer paper stencil tutorial to make the image. You can cut it out by hand with a small utility or craft blade, or use the Cricut for a more exact replica of your image. Check out Instructables user Fylke's image processing tutorial for turning a photo into a two-color separation suitable for silkscreen or freezer paper stencil. You can then use your kid-safe silkscreen ink, fabric paint, or even bleach to execute the design. If you're going with ink or paint, it's best to heat-set it with an iron to really join it with the fabric and prevent any of it from entering your baby's system. If you're going with bleach, wash the patterned fabric a few times to make sure none remains.

Then there are the more labor-intensive processes, like fabric applique. Again, you'll cut out your shapes, but in a contrasting fabric, and then sew the shapes to the background fabric by hand or machine, or even use fabric glue. You could also embroider the photographs on the block sides using our video tutorial for turing a photo into an embroidery pattern. You might also try checking with Spoonflower, the on-demand custom fabric printing website, to see if their fabrics are baby-friendly.

I know you were looking for a magic product to come and solve your crafty design problem, but I hope that these other methods will yield some great stimulating toys for your baby. Please write in to share your results! If you've got suggestions for Ryan, post them up in the comments!

The above image is Etsy seller woodponddesigns' Black Red and White Pattern Jumble Ball soft baby toy with jingle bells.

More:

Ask CRAFT: Sourcing Freezer Paper and Other Supplies

From the pages of CRAFT, Volume 02:

Freezer Paper Stencil by Leah Kramer. Preview the article in the digital edition, and grab the back issue in the Maker Shed.

December 23, 2009

Ask CRAFT: Disposing of Hazardous Chemicals

Michelle Kempner in NYC writes in:

A friend left me art supplies when she moved cross country and I have been lugging them around from apartment to apartment ever since. Now I am moving across the country and I need to get rid of them. The only problem is that I am not sure how to get rid of them. The supplies she left me with are things like Stand Oil, acrylic latex paint, turpenoid, gamsol, workable fixatif, spray mount and spray paint. What should I do?

Most county hazardous waste facilities have at least one day a month when you can drop off these materials, sometimes for a small fee. Look up each one of your chemicals to see if it's safe for the drain. For example, photo developer and stop bath are relatively innocuous (but check out advice for neutralizing them before dumping down the drain), while toner contains heavy metals and should, under no circumstances, be poured down the drain. Since Michelle lives in New York City, she can call the city information line (311) and ask for advice. Your city may have a similar service! I found info at the nycwastele$$ site about dropping off the latex paint, but they don't accept the other chemicals Michelle listed. Since regulations and pick-up/drop-off services vary by city, county, and state, the best generic advice I can give is to look up "hazardous waste disposal" plus your location when searching online. If you can't find a website that gives you the details, look for a hazardous waste phone number to call and ask what to do.

If your chemicals are still good, try listing them on a service like Craigslist or contacting your local art school to see if any starving artists might benefit from your turpenoid and stand oil before throwing them away. Your local university art department will know how to dispose of these chemicals, too, and might let you piggyback on their end-of-semester cleanup if you know who to ask.

I wish there were one site I could direct Michelle and you all to that would tell you exactly how to dispose of every chemical in every state, but the truth is that hazardous waste disposal regulations vary based on location, so the best I can offer is some search engine keywords and general recycling principles to get you started. Do you have advice for Michelle and others looking to safely dispose of hazardous chemicals? Post them up in the comments.

(Image: chemical shelves, a Creative Commons Attribution Share Alike image from kevin mullet's Flickr stream)

December 9, 2009

Ask CRAFT: Sewing Machine Cabinet

Jean Ashley from Salt Lake City, Utah writes in:

I have been haunted by bad middle school home economics experiences, so I've not done any sewing for a long time, but my boyfriend bought me a new sewing machine last Christmas (yeah!) for my soon-to-be-completed craft room (double yeah!) and now I have a question.

A friend of mine said that I should get something called a "sewing cabinet" (presumably something like this) but I am a novice sewer, and I would prefer to not spend a lot of money, if I can avoid it.

My questions for you are:

1. What are the advantages to using a sewing cabinet over just placing the sewing machine on a flat desk or table?

2. Do you know of any "hacks" or other tutorials on how to convert a basic table/desk to a sewing cabinet?

Like I said, I'd rather not shell out the money for something I don't even know I need, but I also don't want to go cheap and have a bad sewing experience just when I've mustered up the courage to seam again!

No, you don't need a sewing machine cabinet. Old sewing machines used to come mounted in desks, and some of them could fold up and down to make the workspace useable as a flat table top when the machine was away. Most new machines are designed to be used on top of a table, not inside it, and hence have rounded edges that wouldn't form a flush surface even if you did put it in a sewing desk. Sewing machine cabinets can be useful if you have an older or hand-me-down machine that is designed to be used in that context. I wouldn't invest in a big piece of furniture like this unless you're really sure you want it.

As for hacking your own sewing machine table, all you'd need to do it create a recessed tray in the table top that brings the height of your sewing surface flush with the table. Ikea Hacker posted about this "open to craft, close to hide the clutter" sewing station made from two standard bookcases. you might be able to find a used sewing machine cabinet at the thrift store or on Craigslist.

Lets talk about sewing ergonomics for a moment. When working, your feet should be flat on the floor with your knees bend 90 degrees. With your shoulders at rest and elbows bent also at 90 degrees, your hands should be at the level of your work surface. If your sewing machine is on top of the table, you might find your sewing level is up too high. You can either cut a giant hole in your table and recess your machine, or simply raise your chair up. I'm really short, so when I raise my chair up to achieve the right working height, I need to use a foot stool to stay comfortable. A foot stool (and even an adjustable chair, if you don't have one) is a lot cheaper than a sewing machine cabinet or desk mod, so I recommend trying that route before making any major furniture decisions!

The above photo is CC Flickr user memyselfandkai.

December 2, 2009

Ask CRAFT: New Site Design FAQ

This week on Ask CRAFT, we're answering your questions about our lovely new site!

Is there a subscription fee?

Nope! The new CRAFT is free! We're an ad-supported site with additional support from the Maker Shed store, so you don't have to pay to access Craftzine.com.

Carla on Facebook: "Does this mean no more print pub?? Ever???"

That's right. Don't pout! We can't say we'll never publish anything in print again, but our day-to-day and month-to-month blog posts, columns, and long-form articles will be published here at Craftzine.com. For FREE. What's not to love? You can still buy back issues of CRAFT in print in the Maker Shed.

The site looks borked in my browser. What's wrong?

During the changeover to the new design, the site loaded funny for a few minutes. It should all be fixed now, so refresh your browser and check again. If it still looks funny, please take a screenshot and send it to me so we can get on any issues right away. Don't forget to tell us what operating system and browser you're using.

@planetjune: "Hope you're planning a guide to the new site? There's so much there, I don't know where to start!"

The new site is designed to share the same columns and sections from the former print mag, plus all the great online stuff we already had going, like pattern and video podcasts. Look along the top two navigation bars to find regular columns and features, and be sure to subscribe to the blog in your RSS reader, if you haven't already. Or have CRAFT come daily to your email inbox so you never miss a post. While the column pages don't have RSS feeds, we'll blog about them when they go up so you don't have to go searching around to find out what's new.

Who developed the new site?

The whole team contributed, but special thanks are in order to Tatia Wieland-Garcia, our webmaster, who programmed the whole thing, and Daniel Carter and Katie Wilson are majorly responsible for the design. We use a custom content management system, and our blog is built with Moveable Type.

November 11, 2009

Ask CRAFT: Buying a Dress Form

br />

Farrah writes in:

My boyfriend was trying to buy me a dressmaker's doll for my birthday. He finally had to confess total confusion after surreptitiously taking my measurements. It seems none of the sizes he found fit me exactly. Is it better to have a doll that's slightly smaller than myself in one area, but fine in the others? Are there dolls that I could order to fit my measurements? I know I could make one from duct tape and an old t-shirt, but I hear homemade ones tend to collapse.

Since it's cheap and fun, I'd try to make your own dress form first. True, they may not be as sturdy as the store-bought ones, but they're certainly not as expensive! If it collapses, it's because it's not densely packed enough with support material. You could try stuffing it with a whole pile of plastic grocery bags to provide adequate filling. Instead of duct tape (or on top of the duct tape), you might try using papier-mâché or paper tape to stiffen the form and make it more durable.

The next level up is to get an a plain form that approximates your measurements. Yes, as you suspected, it's better to get one that is smaller than your body in some places, but fits you in others. You can always add padding to the form, but you can't make it smaller. I'm no brand expert, but if you order online, you can expect to pay between $150 and $300 on a one-size form. You can customize your form to make it more like your own body.

The third thing to consider is getting an adjustable form. This is the kind I have, and I'm thoroughly satisfied with it. It has dials at the bust, waist, and hips, and even has an adjustable torso length and neck measurement. It's not as easy to pin to as a standard form, but I've had it since I was a teenager, and it has changed size with me over the years. They come in different "body types," so check the ranges on the measurements before getting one.

Do you have dressmaker form advice for Farrah? Share it in the comments!

November 4, 2009

Ask CRAFT: Re-sizing Bust Darts

Eyela A. from Oregon writes in:

I love to sew, but am not quite at the level where I can design or modify patterns. However, I'm getting there out of necessity. My biggest problem is that the chest darts in dress and blouse patterns aren't sufficiently long to accommodate a larger cup size. It's also not useful to buy larger patterns since the rest of the proportions stop working. I've searched high and low for a good tutorial or guide for how to appropriately re-size a dart, but there's not much out there. I wonder if you know a good resource?

I can point you to two books and one website that will help you get the shape you want out of your pattern. You should read up on bodice pattern construction and learn all about the the bust point and where you'll need to move it on your pattern.

Here are my two favorite books about pattern construction/manipulation:

How to Make Sewing Patterns by Donald H. McCunn features a whole section on changing dart locations.

Patternmaking for Fashion Design by Helen Joseph-Armstrong is a substantial book containing almost everything you'd want to know about making sewing patterns, and has a large section on darts. If you want the book but don't like the high price tag, look for previous editions that contain basically the same information. This is a textbook that is continually revised, and is priced as such.

Lastly, have you heard of BurdaStyle? They have a bunch of free tutorials for sewing techniques (including pattern manipulation) created by staff and users of the site. Check out this fullbust adjustment for princess seams turorial, a trick for natural-looking bust darts, and the staff tutorials on turning darts into princess seams and constructing the basic bodice block.

October 21, 2009

Ask CRAFT: Which Adhesive?

Kelly writes in:

I am wanting to glue some glass beads to a wooden box (sort of like pave diamonds in a ring) and wondered what glue would work best?

Well, I'm not sure. But I know who is! Over at MAKE, thistothat.com is a favorite resource for just this problem. It's a website with two dropdown menus, and you pick the materials you're trying to adhere together. It will recommend several types of adhesives and tell you all about them. We love it so much we put it in the reference section in the back of the Maker's Notebook (as well as knitting needle sizes and other crafty quick reference stuff, did you know that?).

In the Maker Shed:

Pick up The Maker's Notebook ($19.99) for all your big ideas, diagrams, patterns, etc. Exclusive to the Maker Shed: Sticker sheets and a band closure to customize your book.

October 14, 2009

Ask CRAFT: Suitcase Decoupage

Anita in Denver, CO writes in:

I saw a show on the PBS channel that featured a lady putting neat old pictures on an old suitcase, then using shellac and sealing the old pictures permanently on the old suitcase. I want to do that project so badly this winter when it is snowing outside. I cannot find it anywhere. Can you help?

You can get shellac at the hardware store, with the liquid wood finishes. They make it in brush-on and spray varieties. It has a yellowing effect usually (which may be what you want), and is a water resistant finish. If that's not what you're going for, try Mod Podge, princess of all craft adhesives. You can brush it on as an adhesive and finish for affixing and sealing old pictures to the suitcase. Just make sure the suitcase and pictures are clean (and dust free). You can wipe the suitcase down with a damp cloth and then let it dry, or try a can of compressed air (from the office supply store, usually for cleaning computer keyboards and the like), then use any number of the vast plentitude of decoupage tutorials online to make your own!

October 7, 2009

Ask CRAFT: The Back of the Embroidery

Merrill Melideo in New York, NY writes in:

Recently I embroidered some baby snap suits for my dear friend who was expecting her first baby. She loved them so much that she's purchasing more, and I'm feeling inspired to start making a whole bunch and trying to sell them! However I do have a concern about the backside of the embroidery work with all of the knots. I'm worried that perhaps it may be irritating to a baby's skin. Is this a valid concern? I've seen that iron-on fabric that goes on the backside of some needlework and I was wondering if that might be a good idea.

Well, one approach, if you're worried about the knots, is to just not use them when creating your stitches. I often just leave a long (non-knotted) tail when I start, and wrap my stitches around the tail, working it into the design. This makes the back smooth and knot-free. I'm not sure if the knots would irritate a baby's skin, and I consulted our resident embroidery expert, Contributing Writer Rachel Hobson. She writes:

Generally the knots are small enough that it isn't an issue. Regarding the stabilizer material, most of those are meant to be removed after stitching, and since they don't cover the stitching, just support it. I don't know that it would help much, and may cause more discomfort because of the stiffness.

One option would be to stitch on a separate piece of fabric (like a soft cotton) and then applique that piece to the onesie using wonder under or some kind of fusible webbing. Or, you could cut a rectangle of cotton large enough to cover the back of the design and then use the strips of fusible webbing along the edges to adhere it to the back of the design.

The best advice I can give is to ask the babies' parents if they notice any irritation, and then take steps to correct it when you gather some more information!

September 30, 2009

Ask CRAFT: Photographing Your Projects

Michelle Hiskey writes in asking:

I love the photos on Craftzine. Even if i have no intention of making the craft, i appreciate the photo styling and details. can you supply tips on how these photos are made?

It's true that having great photos will make your project more likely to get attention on our site. Here's my advice.

Know your equipment

You don't have to have an expensive camera to take great photos. A simple point-and-shoot digital camera with at least a 3 megapixel resolution will serve you well for almost all applications. You can really go crazy spending money on cameras, but don't spend a lot before you learn a lot, to make sure you're getting what you want and not just an expensive paperweight. Once you've got your camera, read the manual. Lost it? Look it up on the manufacturer's website. It's imperative that you know how to operate your camera including setting the white balance and any manual exposure settings you camera may have. Oh, and get a tripod, even one of those small desk ones (I recommend the Gorillapod or ModoPocket).

Lighting, lighting, lighting!

Lighting is the absolute most important aspect of photography. Photograph near a bright window, or invest in a few hardware store clamp lights and play with their arrangement around your photo area. You can build your own softbox to diffuse them, even, and a light box, too. Look through your camera's viewfinder at your subject and try to minimize glare and strange shadows by positioning lights above, below, in front, and behind your object.

Setting the scene

Professional photographers often use a seamless backdrop (fabric or paper) draped from the wall out to the floor/table, as it eliminates the line where the horizontal surface of the table/floor meets the wall. You can do this at home with a piece of fabric (iron it, please!) or some solid-color wrapping paper on a roll (Ikea has it for cheap, natch). You may choose to photograph your project in a more natural setting, in which case you should think about props and background scenery. If it's a food project, make sure your kitchen counter is clean! You get the idea, look at your photo as if you're seeing it for the first time, and check for what might catch the viewer's eye (both positively and negatively).

Software touchups

If you're going to learn only one Photoshop technique, let it be Levels. Available under Image > Adjustments > Levels, it's great for making your photo really pop by making the lights lighter and the darks darker. Don't be afraid of the histogram in the window that pops up, it will soon be your best friend. It's showing you the distribution of lights and darks in your image. I like to drag the outer sliders just a bit towards the center of the histogram. Leave the "preview" box checked to see what your modified image will look like. This small tweak can make a good photo great. Avoid cheesy watermarks or other image manipulations. Keep it classy!

Share!

Get your photos out there! Put them on Picasa Web or Flickr, and add them to the CRAFT Flickr pool! Use them on your blog, make an Instructable, go crazy (and have fun)! If you can't get enough photography projects, check out Photojojo. Got photo tips for us? Share them in the comments.

Ask CRAFT Home | Next >